Mulu Caves 2019 – Preliminary Report
The 28th Anglo-Sarawak Expedition to Gunung Mulu National Park operated in the field between 4th October and 2nd November 2019. The team consisted of 13 members from the UK. The expedition was enabled and assisted by Rambli Ahmad and the Sarawak Forestry Department, Hein Gerstner and National Park Management, and the logistical support of Veno Enar and local people.
The expedition had three main parts, each of which relied on invaluable local support:
1) The main team of nine based at Camp 5 in the Melinau Gorge to explore leads in Whiterock Cave, Blackrock Cave and in Hurricane Hole on Benarat.
2) A second team of four based at Park Headquarters to explore leads in the northern Snake Track area of Clearwater Cave.
3) A combination of both teams to re-survey large sections of Clearwater and tag survey stations.
EXPLORATION
Part One – Camp 5 in the Melinau Gorge
Up to nine cavers were based at Camp 5 for three and a half weeks where leads in Whiterock, Blackrock and Hurricane Hole were explored and surveyed. A key element of this part of the expedition was to re-explore parts of Blackrock with powerful modern lighting as much of the original exploration had been undertaken with carbide lamps. This area of the Clearwater System had not been entered for a decade and team members hoped to find leads that could eventually enable further connections with both Whiterock Cave to the north and Clearwater Cave to the south. Many leads had also been identified in Whiterock Cave from previous expedition reports and surveys all of which could be accessed from the underground camps at Africa, Propeller and Flying Monkey. The Blackrock leads would be explored from both Monkey Camp and Africa Camp.
Some new cave was discovered in Blackrock Cave, and the assumed connection to Blackrock from the Africa section of Whiterock via the Dancing Queen passages was confirmed and significantly reduces the travelling and rigging time to Blackrock from the entrance. An open lead was identified in the Blowpipe and needs bolts to access it. Various leads were seen in the roof of Firecracker and appear to be below Daydream Believer. Total cave surveyed: 230m.
Much new passage was found in Whiterock Cave around Daydream Believer, Out of Africa, Green Wing, Northern Line and Api Birthday. The discoveries included numerous ramp and bolt climbs left from previous expeditions. One lead from the very promising discovery of Clickbait, at the top of a ramp in Cheesemauler’s, is a shaft of approximately 25 metres heading into what could be the northern part of the fourth horizon, the southern and part of which was found in Clearwater Cave in 2017. Along with this passage the other main find of the expedition was the stunning Shimmering Shower passage off the Medusa Series, a real classic Mulu trunk passage showing Whiterock still has many more secrets to reveal. Total cave surveyed: 7km.
The exploration on Benarat was focused entirely in Hurricane Hole which had been discovered by the 2000 expedition and partially explored in both 2003 and 2009. The purpose of this expedition was to complete the climb of the huge shaft known as ‘The Mother of all Voids.’ The team pushed the shaft 97 metres above the window and 200 metres above the floor, there appeared to be 50 metres above them to the roof of the shaft when the drill batteries ran out. The hoped for passage leading off did not materialise although a glimpse of something that might be a passage was spotted at the apex of the roof right at the limit of our torch beams. Amazingly they were on a level with Hole in the Moon Cave up near the top of the Benarat Cliff. The shaft had an average diameter of 60 metres. It is an extraordinary feature of this remarkable mountain. A couple of other minor leads were explored in the system. Total cave surveyed: 370m.
Part Two – Research Centre at Park Headquarters
An initial team of four cavers were based at the Research Centre at Park Headquarters with leads in the northern part of Clearwater Cave as their objectives, accessed by the Snake Track Entrance to the cave on the western escarpment above the Melinau alluvial plain. They were in the field for two weeks. They followed leads established by expeditions in 2014, 2017 and 2019. These leads, being at the northern end of the system, could access further passages in the Creedence level and passages towards Blackrock Cave.
Though no anticipated connections were made by the team a total of 2.4 kilometres of newly explored cave was surveyed. This concluded the leads left by the Easter 2019 expedition based at Park Headquarters. The team pushed leads in China Shop, the Dune Series and Boulder Chamber. A climb at the end of Sheer Delight was left rigged as a by-pass to the Dune Series that avoids Beckoning Finger.
Part Three – Resurveying Clearwater Cave
At various times a combination of both teams resurveyed the Snake Track and the Revival section of Clearwater Cave, along with Sheer Delight, Great Wall Chamber to Scientific Method. A resurvey with tagged fixed tie in points was also achieved between the end of Clearwater 1 and Wan Way Street in Cave of the Winds.
CONCLUSIONS & PROSPECTS
It is clear from our brief exploration of Blackrock that more passage is yet to be found in this part of the system though probably through bolt climbing. Some sections that hinted at higher ramp climbs were undercut and the walls coated in calcite.
Whiterock continues to amaze us all with numerous finds; though a number included bolt climbs, others were surprisingly accessible. A lack of time and sudden severe flooding of the system prevented a return to Whiterock River and likewise a number of promising leads off 1954 were not explored due to other exploration successes. A number of leads, including a few extremely promising ones were left for the next expedition. The pushing of the lead down to Perfect Mulu Manners has created a useful by-pass to the Ski Wednesday route down to Whiterock River. As an example of close observation of long discovered passage, the new cave found off Daydream Believer should encourage all expeditions to reassess classic passages again. The lead up the shaft in Cheesemauler looks like a contender for a push into the 4th horizon though it will be a considerable challenge.
On Benarat the objective of Hurricane Hole and the Mother of All Voids was pushed hard, though time and shortage equipment eventually forced a retreat just short of the top. A remarkable feature though with a possibility of on-going passage at the top. Other leads were also tidied up in Hurricane hole, though all further prospects on Benarat now lie with the January Expedition.
In Clearwater Cave the new passage discovered helped further our understanding of the complex network of higher passages in the system. It also re-established the use of Snake Track as an access route for exploration of this part of the system.
The two teams worked very well together and coordinated supplies and equipment as well as boats, porters and logistical support. The communication between the teams was enabled by the Park’s radio system and worked smoothly. Three members of the Clearwater team moved up to Camp 5 and joined the Whiterock and Melinau Gorge explorations. Our thanks go to staff at Sarawak Forestry, Park Headquarters, Camp 5 and to all the local people who supplied us with food and supplies, transport and assistance throughout the duration of the expedition. Total cave surveyed by both teams: 9.6km.
Expedition Members
From the UK:
Frank Pearson (co-leader)
Rob Middleton (co-leader)
Helen Fairclough (treasurer)
Dr Rostam Namaghi (medical officer)
Colin Boothroyd
Pete Hall
Dave Nixon
Jethro Pryke
Joe Sharp
Brendan Sloan
Tom Smith
Josh White
Will Yu-Pearson
From Malaysia:
Veno Enar (logistical officer)
Jimmy Jarau (boats)
Steve Lian (cook)
Frank Pearson, Rob Middleton: 01/11/2019